Answer: First off is it a throttle body or Multi-port injection. put a fuel  gauge on it and check the pressure. throttle body injection should take  4-9 psi to start. multi port will have the injectors (one for each  cylinder) in the intake. That system needs like 35-45 psi to work. I  think you would have TBI on that system. check your connections to the  injector to make sure it is good if your pressures are good. Also make  sure that you check the ground connections near the battery and at the  terminals. Make sure that you have no green wires (corroded) by lightly  pulling on them to make them break. Don’t yank them just pull lightly.  Ford had a big problem with corroded wiring back then. I fixxed many a  vehicle by replacing battery terminal ends and ground wires for  conditions like this. By your description I would look there firstI recently ran into a no start with the pump making noise so we pulled  the gas line fitting at the engine to see if gas was flowing.  Barely a  trickle came out.  The impeller on the pump had come loose from the  shaft so it wouldn’t build up pressure.

Mike  86/00 CJ7 Laredo, 33×9.5 BFG Muds, ‘glass nose to tail in ‘00  88 Cherokee 235 BFG AT’s  Canadian Off Road Trips Photos:  Non members can still view!  Jan/06 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pictures.html?id=2115147590  (More Off Road album links at bottom of the view page)

If it was fuel injected it was the port fuel injection.  Ford didn’t  put a 302 throttle body in the F150, I don’t even think they had one.  85 either was carb or mpfi like what the mustag gt had

I had a 1985 Cavalier and used the Colorcote 2000 *as seen on t.v.* It worked just fine. I now use in on our Plymouth Van and it looks showroom new. Both were using the dark blue.
I have tried Color Match (Turtles) and I don’t think it performs as well but the color was light tan on my Sable wagon. I don’t know if the darker colors work better or the brand name. But next time I will use the Colorcote 2000 in light tan.
Sometime ago I read a Consumers Report article in which they rated “NuFinish” as the best wax. I use it all the time on my 86′ Pontiac (metallic silver) and the car positively sparkles. If you are having bad luck with all waxes, I would suspect the method is the problem. You need to start with a very clean vehicle, and then apply a small amount of wax and spread it thinly. If this is difficult, and if the wax is carnauba based, you can add a little water to the bottle to thin it out and make the spreading-it-thin job easier. If you apply too much wax for an area and allow it to dry there, it will be too thick to buff up easily. This is the same thing that happens when a vehicle is hot, but then it is not an user controlled issue. I usually do the entire vehicle first with applying the wax, let it dry, and then go over it again with a new dry cloth to lightly buff it to a shine. This takes off the excess wax and causes some dry grey wax residue to build up in the cloth.
If you are really keen on getting a thick wax base, you’ll have to do it one layer at a time. Apply, dry, buff up, and then repeat again. Resist the urge to put the whole bottle on the car or truck. Even though you want to protect your vehicle, applying too much wax will set you back on the buffing task.
The method of waxing and buffing is basically the same as it is for floor waxes of the buffing type. Having worked for some time in the janitorial field and specializing the floor care, I found that the methods and concepts translate well to waxing vehicles.
I’ve been using Turtle Wax, but I’m sure there are lots of waxes as good or better.

on gm apps, ground terminals a-b at aldl connector under dash and turn key on, count codes this way, on newer fords with a check engine light, at eec self test connector under hood, ground single lead connector and turn key on , this will run a koeo self test and output on deamand codes and cont mem codes, there is also a koer self test , but i dont want to get that involved and confuse you,
To pull codes on a Ford you must JUMPER self test output to self test input; hold the large diagnostic connector (pyramid with the top lopped off) with the lopped off top up, put a jumper in the top right hole of the connector and connect to the single wire connector, turn the key on, count codes on the “check engine light” the eleven seperates hard faults from the memory codes.
Does anyone have a list of the diagnostic codes for GM and FORD? The original was probably the same question, but this is the first time I have noticed this subject line. I am interested in the codes for a 1991 Ford Explorer, 1987 Ford F150 Truck (302 ci.) and a 1985 Chevy Z-28 (305 ci.), if they differ from car to car and not just between manufacturers. Is there any fairly cheap instruments that can be bought, made or attached to a PC to get the codes. If these questions are in an FAQ please point me towards it.
Thanks in advance !!!!!!
Does anyone have a list of the diagnostic codes for GM and FORD? The original was probably the same question, but this is the first time I have noticed this subject line. I am interested in the codes for a 1991 Ford Explorer, 1987 Ford F150 Truck (302 ci.) and a 1985 Chevy Z-28 (305 ci.), if they differ from car to car and not just between manufacturers. Is there any fairly cheap instruments that can be bought, made or attached to a PC to get the codes. If these questions are in an FAQ please point me towards it.
Thanks in advance !!!!!!

The 302 is OK for light duty towing. If the F150 has the factory towing package it should have a 3.55 rearend. It really needs a 3.73 or 4.10 for better towing. If your doing a lot of towing or pulling over 4,000lbs I would consider going to a F250 with a 351 or preferably the 7.3 diesel.
What/How Much are you towing ? I tow a 19″ Komfort Trailer which probably weighs 3500-3600 lbs (3200 lbs dry w/o options). You will be much happier with the 351 Ford engine over the anemic 302 when towing.
To get enough pulling power, the 302 would have to have low gears, maybe 3.73 or even 4.11. This will hurt mpg. So, a better choice would be the 351 and 3.08 or 3.23. The 351 has the torque to tow some weight, while the higher gears will offer better mpg on the highway. Heck, a 351 w/3.08 probably gives you as good mpg as the 302 w/3.73. But the 351 offers up more power.
In 1985 I bought my 1986 F150 4×2 standard cab, 302 EFI and the towing package with heavy duty springs. The truck has 110K on it and is used often to tow my horses around. The two horse trailer with one horse weights just under 4,000 pounds. The truck has 3:55 differential and the automatic tranny. It does great. I slow down to 55 or 60 on 6% freeway grades, and drop into 2nd and hold about 40 on 8% grades. I’ve pulled out of Lancaster in August with 2 horses, 3 people and a bed full of hay and tack in 110 F heat with no problems going to LA over the mountains. The truck never goes over 1/2 scale on the temp gauge and uses about 1 quart every 5K miles. I get 10 to 12MPG towing and 18MPG highway.
At 80K miles the fuel pressure regulater ruptured, flooding the engine. I replaced the exhaust manifolds (both cracked), the O2 sensor, cat and muffler at that time. At 100K I replaced the factory hoses, belts, water pump, timing gears and chain for preventive maintenance. No other work has been done to the truck

Thanks

Answer: According to my Chilton’s manual #7768, Fuel Injection & Electronic  Engine Controls, the #31 codes, either Continuos, KOEO or Engine  Running, point to the EGR system,specifically EGR Valve Position  Sensor ( that plastic electric connector thing on top of the actual  EGR valve) and the EGR Valve Regulator (your guess is as good as mine  on where that thing is located).  Code #18 points to the module  mounted on the side of the distributor and to Spark Timing.  If need  be, I can scan the pages and send them to you via e-mail.  The Haynes  manual should explain the ignition timing procedure for you.  The EGR  Valve Position Sensor tells the computer how far open the EGR valve  is, but it can malfunction and send the wrong signal to the computer.  The computer can then keep the EGR valve open when in reality it  should be closed.  If the EGR valve is open at idle speed, the engine  will be groggy and may not even run.  The air/fuel mixture will be too  dilute to allow the engine to idle properly.

I have a 85 F150 with 120,000 miles on it and it has been running great  these past 17 or so years. For the past 10 or more years, the gauges  (temp, fuel, and oil) have given false reading (less gas than there was or  very high water/oil pressure when all was normal etc). In the past week  their misbehavior has become more of nuisance. At high velocity — for the  truck anyway — around 60 MPH, the oil gauge and water temperature like to  drop towards 0 psi and C respectively. At other times the gauges simply  oscillate at a tenth or hundredth of a Hertz.

So, this weekend I tore the dash apart and started probing around. What I  learned was, I need the schematics for the truck and my Chilton’s does not  have them. Anyone know where I can get them?

Before too many splinter threads start, I do not think the oil pressure is  failing.  1) I have driven around 500 miles or more with 0 psi oil. 2) The water  temperature remains low and if I look at the overflow reservoir, it is not  full or close.  3) Oil pressure returns when I slow down. Not likely to happen if the pump  diaphragm really broke.  4) The truck does not require more gas to overcome the internal welding  that would be taking place with no oil.

Thanks in advance for any and all help.

Answer: I have a question about those little metal boxes that they call  “voltage regulators”.  What sysmtoms do they produce when they go  bad?  From my experience responses to your thread is good, it draws  attention to the original post.  I don’t know how much they cost new, I got mine from a wrecking yard  and they just give them to me.  There’s at least a couple different  types of connections other than that they all look alike (Ford I  mean).  While you’re at it, get yourself a fan speed switch too.   They won’t charge you for that either.   I’ve seen similar behaviour on my ‘86, which eventualy turned into slow  wipers and dim headlights also. I added a new ground circuit for the  headlights, and removed the in-line ground connector near the battery and  spliced the the wire together properly. Not only does the connector corrode,  but the wire itself corrodes for a fair bit into the insulation.

After all of this I’ve had no more problems.

Answer: Lets start from the bottom and work up. The O2S sensor is required by the  EEC-IV to maintain proper A/F ratio. Without it the truck could run badly or  not at all. Keeping this in mind it is less expensive to retain the factory  Y-pipe because it already has the O2S fitting installed. The difference between  a Y-pipe and an X-pipe is the Y-pipe takes the exhaust coming from both exhaust  manifolds and mixes it together into one pipe. From there it goes to the  convertor. An X-pipe is used on true dual exhaust systems to balance left side  and right side exhaust pulses. You have a seperate pipe coming from each side  of the engine. Underneath of the truck these two pipes connect to one another  in an X and then go out to two seperate exhaust systems. This does of course  require the use of 2 convertors as well as the custom O2S sensor fitting in the  right hand exhaust pipe.A cheaper way to approach this is to get a set of  Flowtech Shorty Smog headers, the factory Y-pipe, a new convertor and a  cat-back high performance exhaust system.

I have a 1986 Ford F150 (had it since 1985), and 7 years ago at about  70K miles, I replaced the cracked exhaust manifolds and exhaust system  with JBA headers, an “RV” cat, and a 3 chamber flowmaster muffler.  I  kept the ford Y pipe.  The JBA headers has the fitting for the O2  sensor.  You NEED the 02 sensor for the EFI to work right.  I’ve got  about 145K on the truck now and have had NO problems with the headers  or exhaust.

Gas mileage was unaffected, but there was a noticable increase in  midrange power from about 2500 to 3500 rpm.  There is an 8% grade near  me that I often tow the horses over.  Prior to the exhaust upgrade,  30MPH was all the truck would do.  After the upgrade, I can maintain  40MPH on the same grade towing 5,000 lbs (2 horse trailer with horses)

I don’t know if the 351 engine has a nylon cam gear like my 302 did or  not.  I changed my timing gears and chain at 100K miles and chain was  worn out.  I had over 3/4 inch of play in the chain!

I have cracked exhaust manifolds on my 1986 F150 4X4 302/5.0  too. THe  relacement exhaust manifolds From Ford or NAPA are very pricey.  How  much did the headers cost ?

you need a twine or small rope, something that don’t cut the seal. WD-40 or silicon lube can help too. With the seal on the window but out of the truck, wrap the rope around the circumference of the seal; I like to go 25% longer than the window (so you have wrapped it around 125%) leave yourself plenty of extra to pull on. Now, if you imagine your window as it is now, but with this string/rope hanging out. Having someone pushing (evenly) on the outside of the window you pull the rope out using it to (inch by inch) lift the seal over the truck body lip hope this helps

Answer: A couple of factors come to mind. First is wear and tear. If most of your driving is done at 60 MPH or so, then it stands to reason that engine components like valves, rings and bearings, whose life expectency is more accurately measured by engine revolutions than by vehicle mileage, won’t last as many miles running at a higher RPM.
Second is fuel economy. This one is less straightforward. The efficiency in energy conversion is probably slightly better at the lower RPM, but the only way to tell, short of a horrible mathematical model, would be to just measure the two. Don’t be misled by a graph of fuel consumption against RPM; most of these that I’ve seen are measured with the engine at full load, which is of no value here.
A third consideration is engine noise, which one would expect to increase with RPM.
Of course, the innate differences between car makes could well offset, or even overshadow, any of the above differences. In the end, the final analysis is probably subjective. (I know what you mean, though; I don’t care for my engine twiddling at 3000 RPM when I’m cruising.)

Answer: Performance cars are expensive to maintain, particularly as they age. Even my Supra needs some items done (another set of res, new timing belt and valve adj (no symptoms but the book says I should do these things), painting of plastic bumpers. I am prepared to foot the bill because what I buy next won’t have the pizzaz of the Supra Turbo. If you don’t have the resources to nurse a 5-year-old car along, then it will be cheaper to get a newcar like the Saturn SC, Nissan 240SX, Ford Probe, or Toyota Celica or Paseo.