Experience with Toyota 4Runner?
filed in Misc Car Questions
Question: I’m thinking of purchasing a Toyota 4Runner, probably a pre-1988 model (the year they updated the body, etc.?). Can anybody answer some of the following questions?:
* I understand that 1988 (?) and prior were designed so the rear cover could be removed, the back seat removed and you end up with somewhat of a truck bed. Is this true? How hard is it to put on/take off the cover?
* Did they make V6s in 1988 and prior? Mostly 4cyls?
* Is the 4cyl powerful enough for medium hauling, ski trips, etc. – I don’t intend to do heavy offroad stuff.
* Is the engine reliable, strong, etc?
* Any strange quirks anywhere in/on the vehicle?
* Cost of maintaining 4×4 mechanisms?
* Do you have to screw with lug bolts (?) when shifting to 4×4?
Any other info would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for the help!
Answer: Here’s my new quasi-FAQ about early 4Runners. I ask any ‘Runner owners out there to inform me of any errors so I can fix them.
o When did the new body style start? When did V-6s become available? *Did they make V6s in 1988 and prior? Mostly 4cyls?
The Toyota 4Runner was introduced in 1984 as a 1984 1/2 model. Mine, an ‘84, was manufactured in July, 1984. The first ones were solid front axle==easy to lift and work on, but a slightly jarring ride. In 1986, the 4Runner, and all 4WD Toy trucks, got independent front suspension. This is more difficult to work on, and more expensive, but takes less space and rides nicer. With the IFS came the 3.0L V-6. These engines will not fit into the solid front axle trucks. The V-6 is supposed to be a pretty good engine. If you’re used to driving something with good power/weight (full size Bronco or Blazer, for example) you’ll probably want to swap in a GM V-6 or V-8. Then, in 1989, it came to an end. Toyota did away with the design we know and love, and made the whole thing, including. top, structural. ie top no longer comes off. The suspension is now solid-axle with coil springs out back, and IFS up front. Then, in 1992, flush “aero” headlights were introduced. This made the new ones finally look like the body style was supposed to. Replacement bulbs are more expensive, though.
o What are some of the distinctive differences between the different year models? (i.e. a 1987 had this feature that a 1986 didn’t and was slightly different looking because…)
Basic differences: SR5s had chrome grills and bumpers and spiffy decals all the way through. I think the newer Deluxes were available with chrome bumpers. ‘86 looks different from ‘85 because of the IFS. ‘89 looks different from ‘88 because of the body style. ‘92 looks different from ‘91 because of the new headlamps.
o Were sunroofs available for the old body style?
Yes. I have a copy of Four Wheeler showing a photo of an ‘85 SR5 with a really, really BIG moonroof (lifts up, smoke-tinted glass). Looks pretty sharp. I had an aftermarket moon-roof put in mine. Even better than that, tho… take the cap off!
* I understand that 1988 (?) and prior were designed so the rear cover could be removed, the back seat removed and you end up with somewhat of a truck bed. Is this true? How hard is it to put on/take off the cover?
The cover top is designed to come off, a la (old) Blazer and Bronco. This is a simple operation: Remove trim pieces (w/Phillips-head screws), disconnect rear washer tube and wiper harness (by hand), remove hex bolts in proper order (specified in the manual) and remove the top. It weighs ~150 lbs (I think) and will store upright in a fairly small area. Two people can, in general, handle it quite easily. (My girlfriend helps me 
The cap comes off and goes back on easily. When put back on properly, it all seals up very well. There are a couple different folding and convertible top manufacturers out there. If you ask me I’ll dig up an address. The rear seat will fold down. Mine is an aftermarket, but the stock ones should also fold down to be pretty much flush with the floor of the bed. The only problem in this configuration is that it’s a completely open truck (i.e. NOT suitable for New England winter.) Many people who own IFS 4Runners in the old body style have never removed the caps. That’s a shame. In the summer, take off that cap, take the moon- roof out… WOW! And have a couple friends riding in the back! And people say Jeeps are fun!
* Is the 4cyl powerful enough for medium hauling, ski trips, etc. – I don’t intend to do heavy offroad stuff. Is the engine reliable, strong, etc?
In general, the engine has always done what I’ve asked of it. I’ve done medium hauling, and if you don’t mind going a little slow it’s no problem. If you do only occasional hauling, and value economy over performance, I’d suggest the 22RE, the electronically-fuel injected version of Toyota’ good- old 22R 4-cylinder engine. This engine became standard in ‘85. If you want a bit more power, or drive where altitude is a concern (ski trips!) I’d suggest a 22R-TE, which is the EFI turbo 22R. I’ve heard that it’s a good engine for this truck, and still can get 18-22 mpg.
* Any strange quirks anywhere in/on the vehicle?
Mmmmmm…Not really. Mine doesn’t do as well as I’d like when braking, but I think that’s a problem with my wheel/tire combo. I currently run two-year-old Uniroyal Laredos on 15X6″ rims. The tires have about 50,000 miles on them, and are showing their age. Of course, I didn’t think they were that good 30,000 miles ago either.
* Cost of maintaining 4×4 mechanisms? Minimal. I do know of one person who had to replace a front driveshaft, but he got one at a junkyard for about $75 and replaced it himself.
o What are some of the problems you’ve had?
Let’s see… We’ve “had” mine since new. It was my father’s company truck, which I bought three years ago. We had a bit of trouble with the rear diff, replacing front and rear pinion bearings, and the exhaust was replaced aft of the catalytic converter, last month. Three months ago, the alternator checked out, and was fixed for $1 worth of brushes. In 9 years and 111,000 mi, that, occasional brake jobs, and 3-5k oil changes have kept it up.
o What are some of the less obvious problems you’ve had? (i.e. when I go to test drive some, what are some of the things I should look for besides the obvious?)
Rust. The front bumper will rust out (black—5-6yrs chrome—8-10yrs) So you’ll want to either get an aftermarket one or get a truck with a replacement. I had a double-tube from Johnny’s Speed and Chrome that I had to repaint three times without even scraping it. It did pretty well in a MAJOR accident, though. Now I have a Smittybilt double tube bumper up front. The look, with the spacing between the grill and bumper, took a bit of getting used to. The stock rear bumper is paper-thin. You’ll probably want to replace that too. Mine is grafted from an “old” Ford Ranger, but I want to replace that someday. And look at the fenders/wheelwells. If they’re still mostly connected, it’s a pretty easy fix by body shop. The front and rear fenders share the same design. (The shop replaced my rusted rear fenders with the front ones from the parts vehicle!) Check the tires. Depending what kind of driving you do (i.e. any off-road, and/or want it to look sharp) you’ll want 31.5″ X 10.5″ on 15X7″- 15X8″ rims. If they’re the stock aluminum (I think that’s what they’re made of) rims, you’re all set. (This applies only to ’84s) Get one with a back seat already in it. I was looking for months trying to find a used one for my utility bed. I finally bought a non-matching one from some guy who bought out the supply from a closed-down Toyota dealer. It’s not the easiest truck to work on/in/around. Everything is pretty cramped in the engine compartment, even with the little 22R. It can take lots of patience. I don’t know how they fit GM 350s in there!
* Do you have to screw with [hubs] when shifting to 4×4?
-If you have automatic-locking hubs (i.e. no visible dial on the front hubs) then you must slow down to below 25mph when shifting from 2-Hi into 4-Hi. When you’re done in 4-Hi, you then shift back to 2-Hi, stop the truck, and back up 100 feet. -If the truck has manual hubs (red selector dial in the hub), you must turn the hubs to the -LOCK- position before shifting into 4-Hi. After you’re done in 4-Hi, it’s recommended to shift back to 2-Hi, get out, and turn the dials back to the -FREE- position. I hope this helps.
o Your general rating of the vehicle (i.e you love it, you hate it, you would(n’t) buy one again…) and why.
I love it! I will never own a car. I am going to keep this truck forever. It’s a little underpowered, especially with the carburated 22R, but that engine will run forever. Longer than a Chevy 283. I mean that. It is relatively easy to find places that sell kits and do modifications for them, too. Some things I’d like to do (someday) include a 3″ suspension lift, 31″ tires, a GM 4.3L V-6 conversion, Lock-Right differential locker, assorted lights, body armor, and interior changes. With a stock V-6 and IFS , it’d be a good highway cruiser, too. Can’t really say that about mine, but I live in a rural area with only a few roads with limits >50. Even at 65-70, the body is very tight with few squeaks or rattles. Top speed for mine is 85mph (downhill, really pushing it.) It gets 22-25+ mpg (w/ properly inflated tires) and inspires confidence. Besides, it’s a truck. My mother was driving mine on a snowy night (Oh, yeah…it’s great in snow, too!) and hit a Honda Accord. She got out with- out a scratch, and the truck took about $3000 (ins. money) to be roadworthy again. We spent an extra $1500 while it was in the shop to get all kinds of other neat stuff done. My ‘84 was bought new for $8900 and was recently appraised at about $5500. But, it IS a truck. Make no mistake about it. It cannot stop like a car (especially with marginal tires), it won’t ride like a car, and won’t get a car’s gas mileage.
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