Oil change every 3000 miles
filed in 1993 Honda Civic
Question: I use a bit of reverse-psychology here– both Jiffy-Lube and the dealer put a little sticker on the windshield reminding me to change the oil again in 3000 miles. Which means that by the time I get around to doing it, it’s only 5000 miles instead of 7500 
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Speaking of Click and Clack, their book has a section on what REALLY destroys the average car, and it has nothing to do with changing the oil. At some point people decide that their car is so old that it’s “not worth fixing anymore” and guess what, the car suddenly deteriorates. I’ve seen this happen.
My ‘84 Honda just turned 120K miles, and my dad keeps asking me when I’m going to trade it in. He just doesn’t get it– why should I trade in a car that still runs? And as long as I can get parts for it, it still runs…
You MUST be kidding! I DON’T *LIKE* having a car payment! I liked having $200.00 per month to play with!!!! I can say that I don’t have any car repair bills any longer though!!!!
I bought a new HONDA because my Plymouth Reliant (hahaha) Was as unreliable as it could be… I took care of that car. I serviced it when it was supposed to and I serviced it when it broke down…. in the 5 years I owned that car (I paid 4500 for it when it had 33,000 miles on it) I probably put at LEAST $6000 in repairs… after one thing would break… another would… when I traded it in it had *2* transmission leaks, the wheel bearings were about to go on the front passenger side and it had an oil leak… those are just the mechanical things… the A/C was also shot and the radio buttons didn’t work… You cannot tell me this was a quality built car! No Way!!
Stick with the HONDA until Chrysler get its acts together. I am sticking with Honda from now on. I owned 5 Hondas, with out a single major problem. Now I have an 89 Escort, and the shit is hitting the fan. One problem appears after the other, and the parts are NOT cheap as most of us may think. with that towing requirement, unless you have a pipeline to Kuwait, forget anything that isn’t Diesel-powered. if you intend to do any hill-climbing in your trailering excursions, then most-strongly consider a turbocharged Diesel. since you require utmost reliability, consider only the Cummins-powered Dodge, as this is a superior engine to the GM-offering and the Navistar used by Ford is naturally-aspirated (both the Cummins and Navistar are superior to the GM, in terms of design and durability since they are both medium-duty engines with industrial roots and the GM-offerings are 1/2-ton pickup-rooted). unless you *NEED* a CrewCab, the Dodge D/W 250/350 is the only sensible choice (Dodge naming convention — ‘D’ — 2wd, ‘W’ — 4wd, ‘250′ — 3/4-ton, ‘350′ — one-ton). See June 1993 issue of ‘Four Wheeler’ mag for more info…
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